Skincare Isn’t Just Science—It’s Language, Legacy, and Leadership
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A Chemist’s Reflection on Shani Darden’s Rescue Serum
By Bri Muhammad
Clean Beauty Formulation Chemist | Green Beauty CEO + Founder
When I say I didn’t review the Shani Darden Rescue Serum in March, I mean it.
I studied it.
I wore it.
I tested it.
I even remixed it in the lab just to explore what would happen if I made a few small swaps.
Not because I thought it needed changing, but because as a chemist—I’m curious. That’s how I learn.
And to be honest, this serum felt like the perfect opportunity to talk about what happens behind the scenes of good skincare—especially when it’s formulated by someone who truly knows skin .
You may already know this, but Shani Darden is an esthetician-turned-founder .
And that immediately made me smile. Because I was an esthetician too, long before I ever stepped foot into a lab or formulated my first product.
When you’ve touched thousands of faces, listened to people talk about their skin concerns, their routines, their confidence... it changes how you see formulation. It becomes personal. It becomes intentional.
So when I used this serum, I could feel that esthetician perspective all over it. And that made me want to dive in even deeper not just to talk about how it feels, but to explore why it works.
Ingredient Transparency Feels Like the New Standard—And It Should Be
Let’s talk ingredients for a second.
There are a lot of fancy-sounding serums on the market. But this one? It’s clean, thoughtful, and every ingredient has a purpose.
Here are just a few:
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
This is a water-soluble form of azelaic acid, and it’s brilliant. It helps brighten skin tone, smooth out texture, and it’s gentle enough for sensitive skin.Oat Kernel Extract + Aloe Vera Juice
These are the calming, comforting ingredients your skin needs when you’re using brighteners or actives. They’re not just “natural”—they’re supportive.Licorice Root Extract (Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate)
This one is a favorite of mine. It helps with dark spots and redness, but it also brings down inflammation in a way that’s perfect for irritated or reactive skin.
And the best part? The formula feels intentional. Balanced. Nothing too harsh. Nothing thrown in for the sake of marketing. Just a quiet confidence behind every choice.
pH: One of the Most Underrated Parts of Great Skincare
Okay, now let’s talk pH. Not in a boring, science-textbook way—I promise.
When I tested the Rescue Serum in the lab, it came in around 4.0 to 4.5 . That’s right where I’d want it to be for a formula like this.
Here’s why it matters:
Your skin naturally lives between 4.7 and 5.5 on the pH scale. When you’re using brighteners or acids like azelaic acid or niacinamide , the product should sit just below that range—but not too far below. That balance makes the formula effective and gentle.
If the pH is too high? The actives won’t work as well.
Too low? You might get irritation or barrier damage.
Just right? You’ll get real results—without all the drama.
That’s why I always say: formulation is about more than just ingredients. It’s about how they’re delivered to your skin.
My Version of the Formula (Because I Had to Play in the Lab)
Now, of course I had to see how it would feel to make a version of this serum myself—just to understand it from another angle.
I wasn’t trying to copy it. I was just curious. That’s how I learn.
So, I put together a minimalist remix:
I used colloidal oats instead of oat kernel extract
Cucumber hydrosol instead of aloe vera juice
I played around with the base to keep it light and fresh for spring
And for the formulation friends reading:
I swapped Stearyl Alcohol for Isoamyl Laurate (it gives a silky glide without that waxy feel)
I tried Ethylhexylglycerin instead of Hydroxyacetophenone, which gives better stability in humid environments
None of this was about “improving” the original formula. It was about perspective.
Just seeing how a few small changes could shift texture, absorption, or overall vibe.
Hydroxyacetophenone: Sounds Scary, But It’s Actually a Softie
If you’ve ever read the back of your skincare bottle and stumbled over “Hydroxyacetophenone,” you’re not alone. It sounds intimidating.
But here’s the truth: it’s actually kind of the unsung hero in a lot of great formulas.
It works behind the scenes as:
An antioxidant , to protect the formula
A stabilizer , to help the product last longer
A skin soother , to reduce potential irritation from actives
Think of it as the bodyguard in the background. Not flashy. Not loud. Just... reliable.
And this is exactly why I share these kinds of breakdowns. Because clean beauty isn’t just about what’s not in your products. It’s also about understanding what is—and why it’s there.
Final Thoughts: Clean Beauty That Works—And Means Something
This whole series started with one product—but it turned into something more.
It was a chance to reconnect with my esthetician roots. To bring my chemistry lens to something that already felt familiar.
And to show that science doesn’t have to be intimidating—it can be beautiful, inviting, and made for real people.
That’s what I want to keep building:
Skincare that performs.
Formulas that feel good.
And a space where education meets elegance.
If you're into skincare, clean ingredients, formulation, or you're just curious about what’s actually inside your favorite products, I’d love to have you follow along.
📲 I share deep dives like this on TikTok, Instagram & LinkedIn — @brimuhammadofficial
💼 I also consult with clean beauty brands & teach formulation—so if you’re building something, let’s connect.
🧪 And if you have a product you want me to break down, drop it in the comments or send a message.
Thanks for being here.
Let’s keep studying, building, and making chemistry beautiful—together.